If you’re looking for the BMW N47 timing chain replacement video, then you’re in the right place. Here’s why – because in this step-by-step guide, you’ll learn secrets from the best professional mechanics who know how to turn wrenches…
Watch this interesting video about the best BMW N47 timing chain replacement
Please click the link below to see pictures number 9 and 13. Ensure groove on high-pressure fuel pump shaft aligned with the lug on timing case 13
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And if you want to buy the timing tool, click the link below.
Doing what i do best. 10 plate BMW 520d N47 engine. Timing chain without taking the engine out. I have explained step by step how to do the complete work.
when the cam cover is out, don’t forget to inspect all the rocker arms/valve lifters. They sometimes break or have cracks on them.
Check out my other videos ☺: Dawda the mechanic.
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I’m just about to do the timing chain on it is the 2-liter diesel so the timing chain got problem is rusted in and it’s about to break it so that is at the back of the engine so what I’m about to do I’m gonna take the rocker cover out take the gearbox out I didn’t take the timing cover out and then I will take the chain out and then I’m probably gonna take the some part as well to replace the oil foam chain the rocker covers out as you can see this is the chain here and this guy here is broken the guide half of the guide is broken all the pieces at the back so I’m gonna take the gearbox out take the timing cover off and then I can take the rest of the guide out and the rest of the chain out by the way to take the rocker cover out you’ll have to take all the injectors out don’t forget to mark it to know which linda is what and now before i jack up the car to take the gearbox out i loosen the pump this the high-pressure pump there’s a bolt there I loosen it about that much and leave it like that there’s another boat at the bottom of the bracket that holds the pump I take this bracket off I will explain why I did this when I’m about to take the chain off does the gearbox so automatic gearbox it has to come out and then take the timing cover out okay now the gearbox is out here I need to take the flywheel out take this timing cover out take the sump out as well and by the way to to see where the TDC is the top dead center if you look at the flywheel that hole here on the flywheel it is different to these holes these holes are talking about the ones they are different there’s this special one here that’s what a fly will lock in so what do you do you rotate it till it matches with this with that hole there and then the crank locking tool goes at the back there and it holds the flywheel that’s where the crime looking tourist goes but I’ll explain later all right to do that timing you have to make sure get these dots much that one dot here needs to be in between these two dots you see that the switch should be and then you put this special tool in there yeah slides on here sits on and hold the cams and then if you come down and the flywheel I have locked the flywheel there does the locking place to special lock in place – who’s at the back and it locks the flywheel that’s on t DC because I’m gonna take the flywheel out and I’m gonna take this cover off what I did I have I have depicts the crankshaft with a typic so whenever when I’m installing the chain I can keep looking at the tip X and I can also install the flywheel to double check with the locking tool again and then you see here the change it’s very very slow it’s about to break the oil sump is out I’m gonna take the timing cover out next I will explain why I took the some power to change the chain alright the reason why you have to take the some parties is because you have to take this pulley out this oil pump pulley but the some covers it when this pulley comes out the first chain comes out for the oil pump and then you can take the second chain out if if this pulley doesn’t come out then you won’t be able to take this chain off from here and also the high pressure pump pulley has to come out as well for this chain to be able to come out as well so you have to take this high pressure pump pulley out this chain out and then the other chain has to come out as well now I’m gonna open this high pressure pump pulley while the chain is still connected so I use this tool it came with the timing chain toolkit I will hold this tool and then I’ll open the high pressure pump with the breaker bar and then the ball will come out I will explain how to take out this pulley now the bolt is out I’m going to leave the bolt in there at the moment I’m gonna leave it about here and I’m gonna take the tensioner out take this guy down take this guy out take the other guy out and then I will I will take this pulley out the only way to take this pulley out is if you have a pulley hole that you can you can pull it out with a pulley holder but it is a limited space you won’t be able to put the pulley holder don’t think so that’s the reason why I undo the high-pressure on earlier we see the bolt I undo that bolt there’s another boat on top of the high-pressure pump I undo them if you rewind the video you will see that I undo the bolt force so what I’m gonna do I’m gonna put a screwdriver against like some way here I’m going to put a screw drivers in in between the high-pressure pump and then I’m gonna hammer this bolt back like hammer it backward and then the pump will go back and then the pulley will come out I will show you later on okay I have hammered this screwdriver against there against a high pressure pump is there and I would leave the school gravity and then I will jack up the car this chain can come out no problem this camshaft chain but this chain here the only way it will come out is you have to take this pulley off and that’s why I left that screwdriver against the pump i hammered it in so now the screwdriver stuck in between the pump what I’m gonna do now I’m gonna hit this bolt back when I hit it yeah now the pump the pump has released itself with this out of this pulley you can take this bolt out now and then the pulley comes out see and now this change comes out and just forgot to mention that the oil pump pulley when you’re taking out the center bolt you have to you have to tight it for the ball to come out is a left hand thread here’s the top company they three put three bolts holding one two three three bolt I took it out from the top with this just the chain for the cam that’s the pulley for the cam that’s the tension of where they come that’s the tensioner for the high-pressure pump that’s the chain for the high-pressure form this is the high pressure pump pulley does the oil pump fully understand well pond chain all the timing chains are out so what I’m gonna do I’m gonna put this high-pressure pump back in its place I’m gonna Jack down the cup put the high-pressure pump up balls back in tight it all up in there and then I’m gonna put the crank shaft back to its timing again because it moved it crank has moved the cam is still locked up so what the cam hasn’t moved by the crank has moved so what I’m gonna do I’m gonna put the flywheel back on like this for example and then when the flywheel Jim I’m gonna touch the special hole and that’s where the crank pulley holder goes and then I can recheck it with the tip X that I made earlier from here see the tip X I can just get it back some way it was roughly here yeah and then I’ll put a new chain in that’s the new timing chain all right I have start putting the new chain I put this pulley on you have to make sure this side is tight this side needs to be tight the tension inside should be slack and then I will install this chain next on top of this then I’ll put the oil on the crankshaft still on timing it is still on TDC TX today I have installed this chain but I haven’t tension it yet I haven’t released the tension it what I’m gonna do I’m gonna tie this pulley this high-pressure pump pull it 265 Newton meter I’m gonna hold this crank pulley with this pulley holder and I’m gonna tie this with the torque wrench alright I have installed this one I have tightened this one and then I haven’t released this one yet this high pressure point one and this is the one for the cam I haven’t put the tensioner yet what I have done the company is loose see I left those bolt loose so what I’m gonna do I’m gonna I’m gonna I’m gonna release this this tensioner the crankshaft seal on TDC we still on TDC the crank the camshaft is still locked so what I’m going to I’m gonna I’m releasing this one just need apply it just release this one that’s a release now I’m going to tie the I’m gonna put the tensioner on the on here I’m gonna I’m going to tight it all the way the tensioner and then I would tie the come pulley last so this is the tension here this is the tensioner now I’m going to tension it all the way in all the way it tight it and then I will tie the camp comes out pulling loss and then job done then I’ll rotate the engine twice then recheck the timing then put everything back together now the sample is tight I’m gonna relieve the camshaft locking tool I’m going to jack up the car and rotate the engine twice and then recheck the timing it’s time to rotate the engine twice here when you are at the back of the engine it rotates anti-clockwise yeah and the clockwise that’s the front of the engine there it rotates clockwise front of the engine rotates clockwise but the back of the engine will be rotating anti-clockwise that’s the way the engine rotates at the back of the engine at the front it rotates clockwise so if you look at it clockwise black back side anti-clockwise same direction so you go in this way example oh yeah see in the morning I tippex this top piece here this tippex has to come back twice I have to rotate this tip X this camshaft there has to come back twice like one two then I recheck the timing that’s what I mean over twice one two I have rotated twice now so now I’m just gonna I’m gonna lock the camshaft again and then recheck my timing on the TDC and then I will just put everything back together I will first put this plate on first and then put the sump then put the rocker cover on then put the gearbox back in and then start the car it’s not running perfect.
Products for you based on this BMW repair video
- Combinnation Kit: This kit include camshat timing tool, balance shaft tool, flywheel holder tool, fuel injector removal tool, all the tools together put in one case, complete tool will make you repair more convenient
- Timing Tool: Designed for ficing the camshaft in right position, use the tool to dismantle and assemble intake and exhaust camshaft, compatible with BMW N20 N26 engine
- Balance Shaft Tool: Specially designed to align the balance shaft and fixing the sprocket and chain tensioner, compatible with BMW N20 engine
- Flywheel Holder Tool: Specially designed for flywheel fixing of transmission before the engine dismantling, compatible with N20 N26 engine
- Fuel Injector Removal Tool: use to pull fuel injector, compatible with BMW N14, N18, N20, N26, N47, N53, N54, N55, N57, N63, S63 engine
- Engine timing belt tool kit contains all the tools needed for installing and removing camshafts and variable camshaft timing units and aligning the balance shaft and crankshaft timing position
- Compatible with BMW N47/N47S/N57 2.0 diesel engines, compatible with all diesel engines after Mini 2007 1.6d 1.8d 2.0d 2.3d 2.5d 3.0d 3.5d 4.0d 5.0d
- OEM: Replace with bwm 115320/115 320, 116480/116 480, 118760/118 760, 118740/118 740, 113340/113 340, 114320/114 320, 118750/118 750, 118790/118 790
- Feature: camshaft alignment locking tool Set improves the sleeve for high pressure pump disassembly tool and disassembling the engine on the basis of the original tools, which makes the working process more convenient, while improving the quality
- Check Timing Chain Stretch: ZKTOOL Camshaft Drive Chain Wear Indicator is an essential diagnostic tool for BMW MINI petrol engines that allows you to check timing chain stretch without dismantling the engine, saving you significant time and cost.
- Accurate and Repeatable Results: Made up of 5 individual working components, this tool is designed to work together and provide a repeatable result every time. The need for close tolerances with minimum friction makes this tool appear to be expensive, but the time saved in diagnosing and confirming chain wear issues can more than justify the expense.
- Compatible BMW and MINI Engines: This tool is compatible with BMW MINI engines with 1.4L, 1.6L, 2.0L, and 3.0L displacements and the following engine codes: N12, N13, N16, N18, N47, and N57, including petrol and diesel variants.
- Equivalent to OEM 2 353 281: This tool is equivalent to the OEM 2 353 281, ensuring that you get the same level of quality and accuracy as the original manufacturer's tool.
- Compatible with Citroën and Peugeot Engines: In addition to BMW MINI engines, this tool is also useful for equivalent Citroën and Peugeot engines, making it a versatile tool for your garage or workshop.
*Options last updated on 2024-12-05 at 06:06.